When I left Ana's I had 200 pesos in my pocket. I was wondering if was enough to get me to Cancun. The closest bank was in Merida and to go was turning back 40 km plus traffic. It was going to add maybe 2 hours to my day. I decided to skip it. The problem was that Ana said the banks close at 3. I was leaving around 11 so it wouldn't give me a lot of time to get to get to the bank when I got to Cancun. It seemed a little more excited to ride with 200 pesos in my pocket. 

I had about half a tank of gas left, meaning at least another 200 km before I'd need to fill up. 150 pesos will take me about 300 km provided I'm not speeding. From what I could tell I had more than enough to get to Cancun. When I filled up about 100 km from Hoctun I put in just 150 so I'd have money to eat. I stopped at a restaurant had huevos mexicana and had 15 pesos in my pocket. Got a coke for 5 pesos. I had 10 pesos in my pocket. Tank was mostly full and so was my stomach. I had about 200 kms left to go. 

The ride to Cancun was uneventful, the roads since leaving Palenque are all straight and boring for the most part but you can travel large distances in relatively little time. I got to Cancun and the sky began to fall. I found a big commerical plaza and low and behold there was a Scotiabank and it was open. Right now it was 3:30. I walked inside and waited in line. When it was my turn I presented my credit card and passport like I had several times before. The girl took it, went to her supervisor returned telling me that she wouldn't be able to help me because it's a foreign card. I figured they just didn't know. I told them I wanted to speak to the manager, while waiting another girl came to ask if I needed anything. I told her I wanted to take money from my credit card. I told her I had done it several times before without a problem at various Scotiabanks around the country without a single problem. She asked the tellers to help me out but again they told her that the system doesn't allow it. I asked how is it possible that I was able to do it in San Miguel, Oaxaca, San Cristóbal without a single problem and now I'm getting denied. She told me there are different systems in different Scotiabanks. Bullshit. 

Now the manager was ready to help me out. I explained that I had done it before, that for some reason the bank machine doesn't read the card so I've been going to the teller. I was starting to regret not keeping my recipt of past transactions to prove I had done it several times before. He made a couple phone calls but to no avail. The bank was closing and they were happy to have me leave. I was incredibly disappointed especially since I had only 10 pesos in my pocket, not enough to buy a coffee, at least not in Cancun. 

I found a starbucks, from there I was able to call my bank on the computer. I love technology. The woman was very helpful and had money wired to Western Union for me. Saved me. I just had to find a Western Union.

Found one and after waiting in line my pockets were full of 1500 pesos. Now I had to make it to Playa del Carmen. I was stopped at an intersection when I asked a gentleman in a SUV for directions to the highway. He told me it was straight ahead and then asked if I would join them for dinner. I thought why not. He told me to follow him.

Shortly we arrived at his house and made our introductions, Joaquin and his family. Immediately I was made to feel at home. The normal questions were asked of my trip while we waited dinner to be served. Joaquin asked if I would like a beer, I said why not and before I knew it he was out the door to go buy some. Had I known I wouldn't. He came back and we sipped our beers why we talked about traveling. He told me that he works at Delta so on occation he'll meet other travellers, I told him about couchsurfing.org because it seemed like something up his alley. His family was originally from Distric Federal, (Mexico City), but moved to Cancun several years ago. 

Dinner was served, I think it was a soup with potatoes. Very delicious, it was great to have a home cooked meal. After the soup we had meatballs stuffed with cheese and rice. Again it was very delicious. We talked a little while longer and then it was time to get back on the road. The rain had stopped again. Photos were taken and I was back on the road not knowing where I was sleeping.

Once I got to Playa del Carmen I looked for the downtown. I inquired about one place to sleep and the guy told me it was 400 pesos a night and full, no way was I going to spend that to sleep. Eventually I found a Starbucks was able to connect to the internet. I don't know what I was looking for. Maybe being connected makes you feel closer than you are. I searched for some hostels. I had found one that wasn't too far away and if it was available I was going to sleep. As I was leaving a handsome couple was walking by. The man started to tell me that if I wanted I could keep my bike in his garage. We started talking about the trip and he told me that he did a tour around South America for 2 years. He was originally from Argentina. I asked them for directions to the hostel, and I was about to be on my way when he asked how long I was staying for. I told him a night. He told me that was perfect, he had an empty apartment that hasn't been rented so I was welcomed to stay there for the night. He went looking for the keys and told me to follow him, it wasn't far. 

We arrived to a semi furnished two bedroom apartment in downtown Playa del Carmen. I asked him his name, Sergio he tell me and tells me that there is a store not far to buy what I'd need for the night and he'd be back tomorrow. It was amazing how everything worked out. 

The next morning Sergio came by briefly to check in on me. Asked me how I slept and collected the keys told me to shut the door behind me. I organized my stuff and packed everything up. I went looking for a internet connection so I could connect with my friend in Playa. Strangely I had someone waving at me. There is no way anyone knew me in Playa, I wouldn't think. It was Sergio and his wife. 

I joined them for coffee and we talked for several hours about riding. The difference between traveling by motorcycle and car. They were a lovely couple. Told me they had met when Sergio was traveling. They left after a couple hours and I stayed to organized my little disaster with the camera. 

Migual Angel and his wife, met on my way to Cancun Dec 20, 2011.

From San Cristóbal I made it to Agua Azul, a large river where there are little waterfalls, I really wish I had my camera at this point, what can you do. It was beautiful. Not much furhter from Agua Azul is Palenque, a well known jungle ruins. I arrived on Sunday, but it was too late to enter. I decided that I'd find a place to camp and go the next morning before leaving for Merida. The first place I found was asking for 60 pesos to set up tent, not bad, but not the cheapest. The second place I found, just a little down the road was charging 25. Almost nothing. The place to set up the tent was under a little cabana, I don't know if that's the right word, but there was a roof over my tent. I didn't think it was necessary because the jungle was sweltering. There was restaurant inside the compound, meals were averaging for 60. 

After setting up the tent I went for dinner. The guy behind the counter was friendly, telling me there was a party not far away. I told him I'd doubt I'd go cause I was leaving early the next morning. I ordered bisteck a la mexicana, out came a plate of rice, refried beans steak with peppers, onions and tomatoes. I think my stomach is shrinking because I remembering being a little uncomfortable after eatting. 

I went back to my tent did some reading and studying. Can't remember what time I went to sleep. 

I woke up to the sky falling all around me. Thankful that my tent wasn't getting rain directly overtop of me. I'm not sure if it's because I underestimated the conditions that night or because I had the security of the roof over my tent but I didn't have the rain cover on. When that rain was falling I was very thanksful to have had that roof.

Around 7 I opened my eyes and got everything packed up. I love that I can just compact up everything back in the bike and I'm ready to leave to the next place. I got to Palenque ruins before they were open. I waited and waited. They opened at 8, and now it was quarter after. I decided to go in and if I got caught I'd just pay when I left. It was cool to be walking around and there was no one around. I got to the main plaza when I man asked if I had my ticket. I told him that no one there so I came in. He called security and I got escorted out to go and buy my ticket. I realize now that I came in through the back. From the entrance it was full of people about to enter. I'm always amazed at the lack of communication in Mexico. I bought my ticket, went inside, spent about another 15 minutes checking out the ruins and I was on my way again.

Chiapas has to be one of my favourite states to have ridden around in, it has everything, mountains, water, rivers, jungle, highland, lowlands. Every twist and turn. Chiapas is somewhere that will require further exploration. 

After leaving Palenque I drove south, made it to a coast city of Campeche. A cool little place, driving around it reminded me of Havana if not just a little better condition. It used to be a fort town from Spanish Colonial times. I would have liked to have stayed the night but I wanted to get to Merida. 

The sun had set as I was on the frontier of Merida. In front of me there was this line up of cars and I decided to go around on the right shoulder. As I'm driving past all them in the corner of my eye I can see it's a Federal Police check point, oh shit. I slam on the brakes almost losing control of the front wheel. The officer runs over to me asking me what am I doing. I explained that I had no idea it was a check point. Asked for my license, passport and my temporary import permit. Explained that it was transito infraction. Immediately I'm thinking how much is this going to cost me. Federal cops in Mexico are known for being the worst when it comes to mordida or bribe. The cop that was dealing with me seemed nice enough, apparantly we were the same age. Asked me where I was coming from and where I was going. Impressed that I had been traveling for as long as I had and where I had come from. After about 10 minutes and all my papers were fine told me to take better care, advised me that they're armed and could have shot me. Imagine that. I apologised again and left. A little surprised that he didn't ask for anything. 

I wasn't actually going to Merida, but a town about 40 km outside called Hoctun, a girl I knew from Guadalajara was working there teaching art to kids. I figured since I was going to be in the area it'd be great to visit. I arrived around 7, the funny thing is that Ana didn't remember me exactly. Might be the beard? It was funny enough, she made me feel right at home.

A quick little update. Camera has been purchased. I'm going with the GoPro2, we'll see how that turns out. My backpack has been recovered with everything inside and Pelican is sending replacement parts to a friend in Quebe who I'm going to see in Playa del Carmen. Everything is going well and I'm still loving San Cristóbal. That's all for now.

I've been making well with people here in this little town of San Cristóbal, Sunday night turned into one I won't forget anytime soon. It started off as a typical night. I went to a wine bar to have a couple glasses of wine, only 20 pesos a glass, and study. It was quiet there except for a French couple sitting a couple seats down from me. For 20 pesos a glass I'm surprised the place wasn't full, but it wasn't, then again it was a Sunday. After three glasses of wine and a couple hours I decided to move along. Not knowing that my next encounter was going to alter my plans my immediate plans. 

I walked by an innocent looking place, an artisan shop that had hot chocolate for 13 pesos. Since the temperature plummets at night I figured a little hot chocolate is exactly what I needed. The woman there was kind and friendly, and there was already a little group of people in the cafe. I got the hot chocolate to go but decided to stick around a converse. The owner is originally from Chile, there was girl from Czech Republic, a couple from Mexico City, later on a girl from argentina joined our little mismash of people. Eliz, the owner had a bottle of cheap wine and everyone was indulging. As I was finishing my hot chocolate I was offered a glass of wine. Of course I accepted. 

Several bottle later, Eliz was closing up shop. Kend, the girl from Czech Repulic insisted that we go to a party she knew of. The streets were full of people making their pilgrimage to the church. It was the day before the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, possibly the most secred thing to Mexian Catholics. 

Next thing I know we're going in for a couple bottles of wine and walked towards the church. Kend, the girl from Czech Republic seemed to know a lot of people in the city. I don't know when it happened, but not long after buying the wine Kend had it opened and we're drinking on the street from the bottle. We soon made more friends and passed around the bottle and around came some tequila. The next parts are little bit of a blur but I'll try to tell as much as I remember. I bought some tacos from a guy in the street, four for ten pesos. Handed him a 50 peso note and soon enough he was joining our little entourage. Some time had passed when I realized that he never game me back my change. Later he didn't remember receiving it. I had several people tell him I did pay, in the end I didn't get it. 

We started walking the opposite direction when I came across a foosball stage. Several tables of Mexican foosball. I just jumped into a game and started playing. We got up 2 - 0, the other side tied. Eventually we prevailed 3-2. There were photos taken. I remember somewhere in the mix having to take a piss. I tried to be as discreet as possible, while pissing a cop asked what I was doing and I ran. Pissing in the street can get you 36 hours in a Mexican cell, or at the very least an opportunity to bribe a cop. I just ran. After I couldn't find Kend, who told me she had my bag. There was another guy who was with us, can't remember his name for the life of me and I thought he'd know where this party was. He didn't. We wondered aimlessly. In our drunkedness someone said, pinche güero, meaning fucking white guy. Being drunk and sensitive to the quasi racial slur. I decided to strip down to nothing to demonstrate that it's just the colour of my skin. I even think someone stripped down. I'm just happy that no cops were around to see this display or I'd be sitting in the drunk tank. Mexican cops wouldn't tolerate public nudity. 

After my point was made we were all friends again. Clothes were put back on and I continued along the path, there are people I met along the way but I don't remember much of them. My final encounter was the strangest. At this point I was just hanging around one guy. I think wanted to make sure I knew where I was going. An older gentleman joined us and my little friend. It was then this older gentleman told me he was gay, which I don't have any problem with, and then commenced to ask me the size of my penis. Funny enough had he been around earlier he'd know. I basically told him that I wasn't gay and I wasn't going to tell him about anything. He got the idea and left. Probably back to his wife and family. I don't know. 

I walked the rest of the way solo back to my hostel which was a little far from the centre of town. I had to ring the bell to have the attendent let me in. I went to my room and went to sleep. I know I tried reading my emails but I was so drunk I couldn't see straight. 

The following morning I had intended to leave San Cristóbal, it's funny feeling to wake up after a crazy night and how all the memories flow back into your head. The nudity, the weird guy at the end, the many people I met in the street, the tequila. I wonder why I didn't go home at a respectable hour when half of our little group was going home. I realized that I didn't have my backpack that is my tankbag. It doesn't have anything too valuable but itself would be difficult to replace. The most valuable thing in the bag would be my multitool, sunglasses and my spanish workbooks. The weird thing is that I didn't panic. I just packed up my stuff and thought I'd try to retrace my steps and I'd find Kend, or Kend would find me. It was a little like dude where's my car. Any time someone approached me I'm thinking did we meet last night. I went back to the store, but it was closed. I wondered how I might be able to find Eliz again. The butcher told me she might be closed all day because of the holiday. The streets were again full of people plus the many pilgrams who had been running from their towns to San Cristóbal. It's was beautiful to see even if Idon't believe what they do. 

It was quickly becoming apparent that I wouldn't be leaving San Cristóbel that day. The truth is that I may not get my bag back. I didn't really panic, it would suck but it's not the end of the world. In the grand scheme of things there are worst things and further more it was brought on by my own decision to have a bender. I decided to go for a quick breakfast and check some emails. I had a chicken sandwich. After a bit I went back to the store and Eliz was there. The good news that she's confident that Kend would turn up but she didn't know exactly where she lived, only a rough idea. The day I spent with her and we just talked about this and that. It was nice to talk. The couple that was with us that night came round and we hung out and talked. I was feeling the effects of little sleep and lots of alcohol so I layed on the floor. Eliz was feeling the effect as well, which is why the store was opened later than normal. I told her of what happened when we got separated and I think she enjoyed the part where I didn't have clothes anymore. She told me that when you know Kend is there it's going to be a crazy night. Something to keep in mind in the future. 

Misplacing the bag has kind of come as a sign, this trip isn't just about places I visit but people I meet. The trip is about people I think. Travelling alone isn't always easy because it's hard to always be open to people. I think it's time I get to know some people here, I think there is lot I can learn from others, and San Cristóbal is a place to be enjoyed, so I think that's what I'm going to do. I don't know how long I'll be here for but I'll stay until it's time to move on. 

Here are some photos from the last couple of days. No photos are available from the little crazy night. That's probably a good thing.

Secure parking, just inside the hostel

Half the pilgrims run in barefoot

The end of the procession

En cada beso un revolucción (In each kiss a revolution)

There is so much to tell from a week ago. At this moment I think Puebla is my favourite city and I think it's where I'd live. I'm seriously thinking that I belong in Mexico. I imagine the answers will become clearer in the future. Why Puebla? It's clean, safe and has a vibrant culture. I just had a great feeling there. I also had a great feeling in Guadalajara but Guadalajara is large city whereas Puebla has a much smaller population. I suppose time will tell. 

Learn to appreciate the little things, replacement clutch cable.

When I was leaving Puebla I had the good fortune of snapping my clutch cable. I say my good fortunre because I was still in the city whereas if I had been on the highway it would have been slightly more aggravating. It did take me several hours to locate a replacement and that happened as I was able to negotiate with the Kawasaki mechanic to give me the cable from one of the floor models. After confering with Monterrey he agreed to sell it to me. 550 pesos later I was back in a cab heading to my bike. By now it was 4 o'clock. I was initially thinking that I'd stay another day in Puebla but I thought that even if I could ride a little that night it was miles I wouldn't have to ride the next day. I got the cable in right. Started the bike and started riding towards Oaxaca. Around 6 I found a nice little spot. Before setting up camp I had some  officers tell me the dangers of camping in Mexico. I told them I wasn't worried and we went our separate ways. The only one I was fearing were the cops would try to rob me later that night. Nothing happened. I slept like a baby and was up with the sun. 

That morning I was on the road by 8. It was nice to find that rythem again. Wake up and ride. The ride to Oaxaca was uneventful with the exception. Mexico has an alarming number of dead dogs on the side of road. A lot this has to do with there are so many strays, but I also wonder if people intentionally drive into the dogs, quien sabe? While I was pondering this, a puppy is directly in front of me as I run it over. I keep going as I hear the whimpers and howling. I see in my mirrors a woman rush to the aid of the puppy. I turn around. There is little I can do. I feel helpless. I doubt the puppy will survive. The woman comforts the animal. The man tells me it's not my fault. I feel awful. It was a somber moment. My mind is blank except for the fact that I hit a poor dog. I continue on.

When I arrive in Oaxaca it's around noon. I'm a little hungry so I seek out a restaurant with a internet connection. Oaxaca is ok, I'm not sure if it's because so many have told me about it I was expecting more. I guess all I can say is it's alright. Maybe if I had met some locals or had more time I might have a better impression of the place. It was only a quick stop for me. However, I was fortunate to meet up Anders again, we happened to be in Oaxaca at the same time and he met up with Sherri Jo, an Austrailian who's been travelling the world for the last couple years with a couple more years to go in her journey. The three of us met for drinks later that night. It was great getting another perspective about long term travel. I was truly humbled. 

I left Oaxaca earlier today, the ride to Puerto Escondido was interesting. Beautiful scenery and terrible roads. I loved driving through Oaxaca state but the roads were dangerous. I almost lost control when I hit a washed out part of the road while going into a turn. Did one thing that scared me today. I'm planning to leaving for San Cristobal tomorrow which means another long day of driving. 

Fuente, Puebla

Puebla

Procession of the Virgen

Snow Capped Mountain, Puebla

Camp Middle of Nowhere

Morning 

Zocalo Oaxaca

Afternoon Siesta

Making Friends, Sherri Jo and Anders

Monte Alban

Mototaxi, Oaxaca